Lhotse

The fourth highest peak in the world, in a double summit • 8,516 meters • Nepal

Climbing Everest involves scaling the formidable Lhotse Face, a steep slope of ancient, blue ice that lies between the Everest and Lhotse peaks, such that there is a shared route for much of the climb to either summit. The two mountains are close neighbours, with a col – a high ridge in the mountain range – linking them. I agreed with the expedition organizers that I would aim for a double summit - attempting Lhotse, which is the fourth highest peak in the world, after reaching the summit of Everest, without returning to Base Camp, and only if such an attempt would be judged feasible. The original plan was to aim for Everest only.

The climb involves descending to Camp 3, just above the Lhotse Face, from where you can attempt the summit. It was a test of physical endurance, and some significant technical challenges, including a steep couloir.

I had been enthusiastic about the chance for the double summit – I recall waking my guide up early, keen to get started. On 23 May, one day after standing on the top of Everest, we reached the summit, which occupies a very small space, in daylight in good conditions. 

Looking across towards Everest, during the climb and descent of Lhotse, we could see a long line of mountaineers ascending the taller mountain, their headtorches glinting when it was dusk or dark. It was a busy season for climbers, and a short weather window. We had been fortunate in climbing before the bigger numbers arrived.

I felt joyful, a sensation not dimmed by being hit by a small falling rock which bruised my thigh. Upon reaching Base Camp, I learned that I was the first Arab climber to reach the top of Lhotse, and thereby also the first to double summit Everest and Lhotse.