Ama Dablam

The Jewel of the Himalayas • 6,812 meters • Nepal

The renowned and majestic peak of Ama Dablam, a name that translates as ‘Mother’s necklace’, is a beautiful mountain. At 6,814 meters, it is lower than the highest Himalayan peaks but it is technically challenging, featuring a formidable sheer section on the upper slopes known as the Yellow Tower. I was attempting the climb in winter, compounding the challenge. Also, owing to the lockdowns resulting from the Covid-19 pandemic during 2020, it would be a year since my previous expedition. I had sought to stay fit with a rigorous training regime - but this does not fully compensate for lack of experience on the mountains, and lack of time at altitude.

I struggled with sickness for much of the expedition. My breathing was impaired, such that I feared I had contracted Covid, despite having tested negative on entry to the country. It was more probably altitude sickness. Close to the summit, I needed to use supplemental oxygen, not always necessary on Ama Dablam. My vision was affected also. Despite this, I reached the summit, a proud achievement for me - my first winter ascent. As I descended, however, I became more ill, and reluctantly agreed to a helicopter rescue. Continuing with impaired vision was life-threatening.

There are discussions among mountaineers as to whether you have ‘really’ climbed a mountain should you require assistance such as a helicopter ride on the way down. I understand the point of view of the purists, yet I did feel pride in having stood on the summit of ‘Mother’s necklace’.